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Fixing Manicure Drill

asdfasdI always love a mini drill. My first tool is supposed to be a manicure tool which came with little drum sander. Unfortunately because I bought the cheapest from online store, it’s speed controller is not function.

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Although I can dial them by turning it up or down, but the speed of this tool were not change at all. It just goes fastest when I turn it on.

So, I think the problem was in the potensiometer but actually replacing it wasn’t fix the issue. I think the transistor might be broken. I googled and I found out that LM317 will be fit to replace it for it is a voltage regulator. So I did replace it and it works. Although I regret that buying the cheapest means compensating with high vibrating tools.

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DIY Mini Drill Router Base

Recently I need to fix my guitar and need to flush glue residue on the body in the neck area and I need a router to do that. I was afraid that a high speed router might ruin my delicate guitar, so the alternative is to make a router base to my mini drill (dremel).

Dremel actually has an accessories to do that called 335-01 plunge router attachment. Since I live in Indonesia, that thing is rare and expensive (around $50). I decided to make one.

After search for a while, I think that a three legs router base would be more sturdy than the original accessories. As for a decent more expensive one came from Steward McDonald, a company that specialize in making tools for luthier. Dremel’s make this base mostly from plastic by the way.

I bought a 1 cm acrylic, make a pattern in computer and print on thick paper. I made two. One for acrylic base and one for wooden block where my mini drill supposed to sit.IMG_3226.JPG

The 3 pens are from bathroom hook or  door stopper I found in hardware store, they already had a screw in the bottom. So I just make a hole in the acrylic.

I made from wood, to attach the drill. I choose wood because it’s more easy to build and to glue a plastic attachment. It’s from a fake dremel attachment (550).

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Finally I give spiral spring, although it is not really have much effects but it helps those three legs to raise at the same level.IMG_3249

Although in the photo is not dremel but it can be use for any rotary tool that has the same thread.

 

 

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How To Install Racket Grip

Recently I bought a badminton racket from Victor, it’s a Jetspeed Natsir. Personally I don’t really a fans of Victor’s racket because they make a longer racket, or a longer wooden handle compare to Yonex’s. That longer handle sometimes makes my wrist swells because the bottom of the handle touch my wrist. But, I bought it anyway because they offered a great discount price on this one since Lilyana Natsir this year change sponsorship to Li-ning, and I kind of need a lighter racket. So, yeah this one is 4U while my other rackets is 3U and heavier.

So anyway, as usual I stripped of the original grip and put a new grip. I do this after my friend who is an athlete suggest to, it makes more fine in control. I do find it really is. After a couple of times tried this new racket I find that this racket feel more heavy than my 3U racket (bravesword 130) and it makes my hand fatigue very easily… even though it is lighter. Perhaps because the staff is more stiff.

So I need to find a way to help me using this racket.

I saw on youtube about how Lee Chong Wei and Lin Dan do the racket grip, suddenly I have this crazy idea to make my grip more bulky on the bottom and more thin toward the racket head.

Here is what I did:

GRIP.jpg

As you already know when you buy a grip, one end (left) is more thin and slanted than the other end (figure A). What I did was cut the square end to make it thinner in a symmetric way (figure B).

Then, I began to attach the grip from that end to the right and up (since I’m a left handed)

As I go up spiral I also pull the rubber grip so it will sit nicely on the plastic cap (green in the picture). Now, here is the trick that I did: I started from bottom and make a small overlap to make a thicker grip and as I go along the way, I made more adjustment in the distance of the overlap so it will make my grip thinner.DFDF.jpg

I already tested this grip and I like it, it makes my backhand stroke more powerful as my thumb is helped with my other finger and my hand is not easily fatigue.

Below I took a picture of the real grip for you to see what I’m talking about.

IMG_3215.JPGraketss.jpg

I think most badminton player like the end (bottom) grip is more bigger than the upper. I just thought that as the grip became thinner it’s more natural for our hand to grip just like you would handle a knife or a sword, a larger back handle will make your stroke easier while the front handle will give you more control.

Don’t you agree with me?

Thank you for visiting my blog…. please comment and subscribe. If you have anything to ask, I’d be happy to reply.

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Tablet Stand

My hand got crammed when I held my 7″ tablet extensively. So I think I need to buy a stand or make one.

As it was an urgent events I think of something that is less effort and cheap. So, when I went to the bookstore I find a book divider (metal) and thought it was the right size for the tablet.

If it can be use for books, then it can be use for tablet too. So, basicly a book divider is at 90 degrees angle I just bent it so it can lay back a bit.

I use vise clamp to hold the bottom, of course I need wood or something to prevent scratches. Then I use my both hands to bent it backward. It was quite easy actually.

Then I tried to put the tablet in it and it works.

Later on I try the karaoke’s apps (smule) and the apps suggested to use earphones. I find my DIY tablet stand won’t work with earphones unless in landscape mode.

So, I made an additional accessories to it.

I have an old hard sponge (usually used inside a sofa) and cut with the right size and height. And for the earphone jack, I use my paper cutter (or X-acto knife in U.S) and make a small canal at the earphone hole position, and cut it about 1 cm deep.

So now I can use this stand to smule too. BTW, as I tried using double tape to make the accessories stick to the stand… it won’t stick on the sponge, so I dig a small holes at the back and take two smalls magnets and glued it on. So now I can easily remove when I don’t smule.

Tips:

  1. I think I want to make another one with another angle, as sometimes when I work in bed I need it to be more slanted than usual.
  2. As newer tablets use 3,5mm jack that has both earphone and mic, using smule apps however need a bigger mic to capture more voice range. I bought a splitter and a 3,5mm mic/condenser mic intentionally for go pro actually. It works nice, not great though.

 

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Fixing Electric Pest Control

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I bought this electronic pest control many years ago, and about two years ago it stops working. The LED light was not lit also I didn’t hear anything.

This electronic device brand is Idealife IL-300, it produce sounds at certains alternating frequencies to prevent cockroaches or mice to enter a room or house. I’m not sure how it works, the manufacturer does not explain much further.

I did email the device’s dealer about servicing this device and they told me to ship it to them (round trip probably costs me about $5), and that exclude the parts and servicing fees. (which I assume about $10).

Recently my house was visited by rat and I did capture the rat without this device. So I want to buy another one like this for future prevention, but it’s expensive now (above $20). Giving the circumstances that repairing this will cost me half of the price, I think I’m going to look at what’s inside… if probably swelling parts or loose cables, I can just solder them back and saving some money. After all the guarantee has been expired many years ago.

After I opened the case I find that the big black tubular shape in the middle has a magnetic property. I don’t know what is, but I find it interesting though – never seen anything like that before.

First, I check the fuse. Any good device always has a fuse. Grabbing my digital multimeter, dial to diode, put the two probes on fuse’s legs and it turns out OK. Next, I suspect the big capacitor (reddish brown) is failing. I’ve seen one of those when I pried open an electric mosquito bat. It wrotes 400volt / 155 Joules (J).

I don’t know the math, but I suspect it is huge. A capacitor usually has a micro farad’s unit. It is not micro and it is not farad so the energy stored in this caps probably can kill rats too.

So I “charge” this device by inserting this device (the whole device-not the capacitor alone) to the main plug. After that I use my long nose plier and carefully and in great distance-away from myself, connect the terminal of this capacitor in the back side of the PCB. BE CAREFUL if you want to try this, as this might create a big electric spark. You can have an electric shock if you touch the metal side of the plier.

(IF YOU NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE, PLEASE DO NOT TRY – I’M NOT RESPONSIBLE OF ANY INJURIES THAT MIGHT OCCURS)

After I touch the two terminals, nothing happens. No small sparks either. So I know that this capacitor is dead. I do not need to mark the positive and negative side, because this type of capacitor is non polarity types.

I did find this particular part in my local electronic supplies, it cost me only $0,25. Replace the dead one with it, install, solder, and it works. How about that….??

The thing about fixing things yourself is that it makes you very happy (if it works). You get the device start working again and you are happy because you save a lot of money. The only one that is not happy is the rat.

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Access Denied on Windows 7

It’s a little out of date actually that in 2017 I’m still using Windows 7. But I love this OS, and many users probably agrees with me. As times goes by, you’ll install many additional softwares for your needs including some free antiviruses and other freewares. I know I did and without knowing, I assumed one or more of the software mix the OS a bit.

Recently I want to rename a file that is in the /windows folder, to my surprise the access was denied and said that I need permission from Administrator to make changes. You know, it is funny because when I installed the OS, I only make one account.. automatically it’ll become Administrator – just like I experienced in Windows XP, but apparently it was not.

I’m guessing it was the antivirus doing to prevent me and some viruses to hack into /windows folder. I’m not complaining, so let’s fix this or at least I can manage to rename the file and get what I want.

So, when I am not the Administrator, then Who is?

When I google it, I found that the “real” administrator account usually hidden in the first screen (log into accounts). So, we need to make it visible. I follow the instructions here, and actually it works. Click start, on search bar, type cmd… if you are my age then you know that this looks like the older days when we runs computer and put the boot FLOPPY disk so we get the C prompt (  C:\ ). Alright, enough of the history… so what we need to do is type this on that C:> and hit enter.

net user administrator /active:yes

After that, we need to log off, and voila… there it is, the Administrator account.

So I login to that A account and try to accomplish what I need that is renaming a file on /windows folder, but it doesn’t work. Even the Administrator account actually is not that superior from My account. I tried to change the permission and access in the security tab in properties (right click on folders you want). It works actually but some folders can’t be change, including the one that I need. [Sh*t…]

Then, I google it again and find that we need to access through Safe Mode. Alright I give it a try. I hit F8 many times before the PC login into windows.. and I click open windows in Safe Mode. Yet another option whether to go to Administrator or MY account. To cut corner, I went to MY account and try to rename that file that I need to rename. And it was still denied.

So, I went back to login windows and this time I login into Administrator account and do the thing.. this time IT WORKED. Yeyy….

Then I restart my PC and login to MY account and hid the A account again, you can do it by type that “formula” above – but this time change it to no, so it will look like this:

net user administrator /active:no

That is it… hope it is usefull to you.

Recap:

  1. Un Hidden the Administrator account. (instructions above)
  2. Restart and go to Safe Mode by hit F8 before entering Windows.
  3. Edit your need by selecting login to Administrator account in Safe Mode.
  4. Restart and log into your Windows account normally.
  5. Re Hidden the admin account.

PS : My account still have restricted copy paste and modifying problem, but I guess it is okay, I should went back to use this trick again when I need one.

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Modem Blinking Problem

Yesterday, all of the sudden my Prolink H5004N modem stop functioning properly. The symptoms was all of the LED’s indicator started to blink at the same time.

I try to reset it by turn the device on and push the reset button for 15 seconds or more. But the problem still exist. I turn it off and 5 minutes later turn it on and nothing.

Once again I assumed that the problem is in the power adapter (switching adapter).
So I look on my electronic “junkyard” and find a working but old computer speaker’s adapter. It has the same volt but with a lower amperage. The original adapter read 9 volts and 1A, but the speaker’s adapter was 9 volts and 0,5 A. But I plug it anyway…
and find out that my modem now is working, but because I use a lower amp. it get too hot for a short usage.

I know now the problem is, so what I wanna do next is to repair the original adapter. Since I’m not an engineer but I love to crack open things, so here we go again.

I open the adapter’s up… boy it is hard to open because there is no screw on it, it was glued all over. So I hit it with a screwdriver in the middle of the plastic joint until eventually it cracked open.

I took a closer look of the board and seek the physically unusual component. I found that one of the capacitor became swelling. I thought that is the problem, so I grab my solder and replace it with capacitor of the same farads and volts. Luckily I have plenty of it (16v and 470uF).

After replacing the caps, I put it together the casing of the adapter.. this time I just duct tape them to easy opens next time there is a failure happened again.

Yes, and guess what, the adapter is working and my modem back to service again.

Notes:

  1. Always check with multimeter first, the output volts whether the polarity is backward or not.
  2. Check the cable, time after time when a cable is bend and rolled up often.. it will wears out and cause unstable connection moreover it can cause fire.
  3. Always mark the original (electrolyte) caps, where is the negative and positive polarity. Because some of the manufacturer don’t bother to print the polarity symbol.
  4. Testing device with other adapter is fine to practice as long as the volts is the same and the amperage is near the original. In my case, a lower amperage was used just to finds out whether the modem is still OK or not.. just a quick test is fine, not intended to use it for a long time as a replacement. However if something went wrong I think the speaker’s adapter will explode but the modem will still be fine.
  5. Before you plug the adapter to the modem or any device, always check with multimeter right after you repair or replace something on your board. Is the negative-positive polarity is correct, is the volt is correct or not. If it doesn’t then you need to find other components to be repaired from the board, or buy a new adapter.. it is not expensive by the way.
  6. Before buying something new, consider these thinking:
    – Sometimes it is cheaper to repair on your own. It just as easy as replacing a light bulb but with some soldering to do.
    – It is faster and eco friendly too. (some things are not available on the market)
    – Sometimes the problem is merely just to clean up dirt or dead ants in it.
    – A lot of new and complicated device nowadays has a protection over power failure, that’s why we often see that a failing device more likely caused by the power adapter rather than a broken expensive IC’s and transistors.

I hope you enjoy fixing things after reading this blog…. happy fixing.

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Fixing RGB – PAR LED (2)

As I mentioned on my last post, today I want to tell reader about how I fix the second PAR LED lamp that is died completely.

This PAR LED has been damaged after months of duty, and I took it to repair station (not the authorized one). I paid them about $25 back then. To my dissapointment, it broke down again after a while. So, I decided to open it up and find out that the service station replace the adapter with a new one (bigger) instead of repair it. But it was not securely placed so the board probably touch the mounting plate and goes boom.

However, the bigger adapter has a fuse that is already blast off. So, I replace it with 3A fuse and luckily I cover up my body with big cardboard.. because this fuse also went boom when I plug the cable. Perhaps the amperage wasn’t sufficient*, as I don’t see any number on board to show how much Amps it should be. I decided to throw it away.
*) when fuse snap after replace, probably the diode is broken too.

Along with the 1st PAR LED, I open both of them to see if I can crisscross the component and see if I can make one of them work and throw away the other. As I think to repair it again might not worth for the money.
So I try connect the troubled switching adapter to the second PAR LED and has the same symptoms as the first one, it is no longer died completely. So, now I know (and relieved) that the main board is not fried too… there is still hope.

Surprisingly this PAR LED was once only show red color, but after I detach the fan. It can show other colors (green and blue) interchange.. but it is not as stable as it should be. You can see the video here.

After I fix the 1st LED’s adapter .. which I only replace 3 out of 5 caps. I attach it to this 2nd LED PAR. And it works. So, now I know that I need new switching adapter that has the same volts and ampere.

When I fix the 1st PAR LED, I tested with multimeter and find that the volts needed is 22V and 2,8A. I did research on google about how can I replace it. Turns out that you can replace it with the same volt, and bigger amperage. As I suspect, search adapter for the exact volt and amps was rather difficult in my country.

I visited the online store in my country and find the closest match for the adapter was a laptop adapter. So I find the one that is cheap and get it delivered to me.

When it came, I crack it open … yups, no screws on cheap adapter. Change the cable with a bigger one and attach it to controller and other components and it works.

Below I draw you a rough schematic of this PAR LED’s components, I hope your PAR LED has the same designs.

Thanks for reading… happy fixing.

skema-2000

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PAR LED Schematic Diagram

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Fixing RGB – PAR LED (1)

I guess readers already know what PAR LED is, so… no need to explain. For you who doesn’t, it’s a stage light which is made from series of LED’s.

I have this big PAR LED that suddenly the LED go blinking or flashing.. later on, it shuts down completely. Sometimes it can turn on again but red only. When I press the menu and the number to change color, it does nothing and still red. I have upload the condition before I fix it on my youtube channel.

I crack it up and see the arrangement of the electronics parts which are :
a. The LED’s
b. Fan
c. Switching adapter
d. Controller
e. DMX and RGB controller.
It can be unattach easily because each parts has (wafer) pins connectors. You know, the white bar that has cables in it. The output cables from the adapter are parallel (split) to the fan and to the RGB Controller. I will draw a rough schematic on next posting.

I curiously remove the (paralleled) cable from adapter to the RGB controller but still connect the fan to the output of the switching adapter which is 24 Volts. I noticed that the fan became more faster by sensing the sound of air flows. So I suspect that it’s a voltage failure. Meaning that the adapter won’t provide the need of both RGB LED and fan, but it can provide for fan only.

Say, if the LED’s needs 24 volts and 3 amperes while the malfunctioning adapter only produce 20 volts and 2 amperes, one or both of the LED’s and fan won’t work properly.
So I believe that is why it only lit the RED one, because red LED usually can lit on a low volts, while white and blue LED usually needs a higher volts to lit.

Amazingly when I put the cable back like it was (parallel the fan and RGB Controller), the fan sounds to reducing it’s speed. And suddenly the LED came back to lit again, as I was mentioned earlier that sometimes the PAR LED won’t lit at all. But it still lit red color only.

Because I’m not an electric engineer so I rather take a chance if my suspicion were true, so I decided to change all of the CAPS (electrolytic capacitor) in the adapter. As I suspect that the problems were from there. From 5 caps on board, I manage to find only 3 of the exact farad and volt number that I need. Two caps can’t be found in nearby store, so it was not replaced. The big one which is the 240v caps, were changed to the bigger volt but has same value of the uF… it is bigger in actual dimension/size though.

After changing all of the caps that I can find (carefully taking notes which is the negative and positive poles), then I put it all together and…. voila, I fix this PAR LED.

Note:

  1. I thought the adapter label should write 24 Volts and 2 Ampere, but the label has no information about it. I check using multimeter and find that the output Volts of the adapter is 22~23V and ampere range is 2,3~2,7A. So this PAR LED original design should runs at 24V and 3A.
  2. Replacing capacitor need to consider these:
    a. Bigger volts value written in the caps means that it can handle much bigger volt input, in this case: bigger is better but usually came in bigger size, so it will not fit in original compartment. I don’t think changing farad value has the same case, they have to had the same value or slightly bigger value.
    b. Don’t mix the negative and positive poles as they might explode if you install it backward. (positive pole needs to go to the positive pole in the PCB)
    c. Warning!! Be careful when opening the adapter, especially if you see a big capacitor that read 240 volts in it. If the caps is charged, you might get electric shock when touching the back of the PCB board.

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Hack AC Airflow

So probably when you have an air conditioner (AC) in your room or office you will need this stuff called the Air Reflector… they are very popular here in Indonesia. If you don’t know what that is, please check below for the picture.

This Reflector has one job, that is to prevent/block the air flow from the AC, so it won’t directly hit your body as it can make your neck stiff, moreover can give you cold. Bottom line is, this stuff makes you “more healthy” because sometimes the AC was installed in your room without expecting that someday you may re-do your furniture. And now the desk you will be working on after rearrange is exposed to the AC airflow and hit your body. You don’t want that, it can make you sick especially if you are working in that area for more than 1 hour.

As it is made from acrylic, this thing cost about 12 to 20 Dollar (125.000 rupiahs). Many years I need this air reflector, but I don’t want to buy them simply because it is so bulky and it will trap some dust on it. Besides that it will turn you air con and your room looks ugly.

So, months ago when I was organizing my garage. I find an old but still good acrylic sheet. It’s about 3mm thick. So I think I will make this aircon reflector myself. Because I realize that it will be make too much effort to make similar to the one that is sold, I decided to make it simpler… rather than doing some bending etc.

So I try to cut the sheet to the length of my AC unit, and about 32cm wide. First I’m using steel saw blade.. but it cracked badly. Luckily I have this old sheet long enough to make second one. If you want, actually you can bring it to the acrylic seller and have it cut for you, as an old acrylic sheet usually has some random scratches that can affect the cutting process. I think it is best if you buy new one at acrylic seller according to your need, they will not make you buy the entire sheet as it will make it very expensive.

Eventually, I managed to cut the sheet with some crack but still can work. BTW, I stick some duct tape on the line where I’ll saw that, as it will prevent wider cracks. I don’t have any other idea about how to cut a scratched sheet… well at least this one works not fine , but acceptable.

Then, I make 2 holes near the top corner edge and make other two holes on the opposite side. These holes is to be inserted with some yarn, two holes as to prevent the knot to slips. Cut the yarn about 40cm long, adjust later depending of your AC unit. Buy small “S” hook or clip hook and attached them on the end of yarn. Make two of this arrangements.

So, now you have it.. your own air reflector. I think mine is work perfect, it will get some condensation when the aircon is on. But in my experience, the one that is sold too have it.. but mine was not a problem, since the water never became a droplet and drop on my room floor. Check my picture to see what is going on, feel free to ask me if you need further instructions…

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Hidden Treasure

Well… ok. The title is a little exaggerating to what I’m going to write. This trick actually came to me about 7 years ago when I was feeling guilty for throwing away some good stuff.

Along way with life, we certainly going old and our skin is really becoming ugly, wrinkles everywhere.(because we wash it everyday but forgot to iron it… hahaha, just kidding)

So I decided to look some facial soap that I will use it everyday when in shower, but I’m looking for something that prevent wrinkles.

So when I went to the grocery store I found this “age miracle” facial foam from a famous brand. But it is rather expensive. So when I went to the store and find it was discounted I buy two or three of this stuff.

When I use it everyday, it last about couple of months but I think inside of the tube there are still remaining of the soap (btw, it’s a paste form). So I grab a scissors and cut it in half. Then scoop it out with my finger when I want to use it. Hey… what do you know… this “scooping” idea make this anti-wrinkle stuff worth for another 2 or 3 weeks.

If you think that it is gross.. then you should scoop it out using a teaspoon and move it on another container, a used toothpaste container perhaps will do.

Hope you get it.

 

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Car Seat Hanger

Last year my family bo51EjWSSZYpL._SX355_ught a new car, it’s Honda Brio. Usually we add some hook behind the driver’s seat (like this one on the right) – so when we buy take home food they don’t fall out and make a mess inside.

But car nowadays don’t have a separate head rest from the seat to install the hooks. They are more like racing car seat now.

So, I find this V tie clip that intended for putting keys inside your bag as to ease you finding keys inside your bag. I bought it online for about $2, it is rather expensive for a small pieces like that (only 3 cm) – two colors in each packs (probably a manufacturing error).

Because it is online, I can’t see the “real” thing – the size and color, the idea was it can be use on the side of the seat (on the seat belt compartment). But no, when it came and I tried, it won’t fit on it. So I have to modified it.

I have a heat gun and get my tap water running so that I can switch alternately in no time. I heat the hook so it can be bend to a bigger gap, and hold it so it will not bend back – to make it quick and to save my hand from heat burn, I run it under running water after the heating.

It was try and error method: heated, cool, reheat, cool. But you will get there after 3 times of tries. So, our car now has a “side” seat hook. It’s not very rigid actually but it will do for food or groceries that is under 1 kg.

*PS: If you don’t have a heat gun, then you can use hair dryer or any gas match will do. The method is just to heat it so the plastic became soft and moldable.

Here come the picture:

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Flashlight Fire Torch

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In last easter, I was asked by church decorator to make a torch because they want to make a scene about Jesus was arrested in Gethsemane Garden. The last time I did was perhaps 7 to 10 years ago, it was made from transparent plastic sheet (like the one that is used for OHP – or you can use a disposable plastic drinking water), I shape it into cone and put it above the fire/stove for a while to make it looks like an iceberg or a rock – a cone rock if you know what I mean. Then I spray it with transparent paint, red and yellow – put it on top of a regular flaslight and it was done. Sorry, I don’t have the picture – it was so long ago, more like this one.

But this year I want to make it cheaper and more “real”, so I was looking for a cheap flashlight – I found it only 5000 rupiah, that is probably 50 cent in US each, including the battery (3x LR4) how awesome was that? Okay, to make it easier for reader to follow – I will divide it into steps. The things you will need are:

  • Plastic film, red transparent (sold per meter, only cost me about 80 cent for 1/2 meter wide). For each torch, depending on your flashlight size – I use about 60x12cm.
  • Scotlight sticker, yellow transparent. (cost me only 20 cent for 60×10 cm)
  • Some regular (1 inch) tape, cardboard and transparent double side tape.
  • Some scrap plastic, transparent and rigid (disposable cup will do) – it should bent but not flimsy – cut it into L shape (see picture below) it’s around 5×4 cm.

Now, here is the steps to make that torch:

  1. Buy a torch flashlight (of course) – I pick the one that is using a LED lamp so it will lit longer.
  2. I was looking for a red transparent film at plastic and leather store. I find the one that is made from a soft – rubbery plastic, similar to silicon keyboard protector..but it is plastic, I don’t know how to describe it.. sorry, english is not my native. Then I cut it so it look like a fire tongue, and below I cut it square (or L shape) so it will fit inside the glass of the torch flashlight and the longer part is for me to stick it to the outside part of the flashlight. Oh… I have to tell you, I cut the “fire” pattern gradually diminished (triangle like)
  3. I grab a transparent yellow sticker (I bought it at automobile accessories store, called scotlight stickers) and cut it into round shape as to fit in the flashlight glass (will be called FG for the rest of this post). Since I made 5 of them, I create a template first using a thin card board. After you make them, attach to your FG.
  4. I made a support in the middle of the FG using a scrap plastic, to attach the red film to the torch. Attach support on top of the yellow sticker using 1x1cm double tape and bend them so it will circle or at least shape like letter C, and bend the tail of the L shape so it will sit like a cup. You can use transparent cap from a hair spray or something, since I made many of this, I decided to DIY this support.
  5. Then I attach the red film, the higher point first so the shape of the torch will look like a mountain, not a gorge. Continue to go round the plastic support and ends up outside the FG, put some tape to secure it.

The best thing about this design is that it will create illusion of real fire and if you move it around, the red films are moving too – it is not stiff. You can add additional handle to make it longer and appear like the “real” fire torch. I’m using the cardboard, cut it about 1 meter by 2,5cm and run it along in circle from top to bottom, like the one you do with the racket towel grip. Then secure it with some paper tape.

That’s it, hope you can make them your own.

Feel free to ask me if you find any difficulty to follow the instruction here.

I made a simple video about this, my blog is not premium so I put it somewhere else, kindly visit on youtube. Thanks.

 

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Tote Bag Zipper

Recently I bought a bag that I’m going to use it when I went badminton. My last bag was a small duffle bag that has one zipper. It was large enough to carry a towel and 3 pieces of shirts and two 600ml bottles.

Because I want to separate my (sweating) shirts that was used during my exercise with the one which is still dry, so I consider to buy a new one. It is rather difficult actually to find my needs which are having two or more compartment and or zipper in it. While the regular badminton bag (racket bag), is pretty big to carry. Which I don’t like it.

So I find this Adidas tote bag the other day, it was intended for swimming or go to the beach maybe, because the bag is semi- waterproof on the outside. I don’t know whether it is an original Adidas or not, but the quality is ok. The only drawback was, I didn’t like the main zipper. It has a long “tail” to end of it, It is bothering me actually to see this bag is not natty.

So, I modified it a bit. Using a small aluminum pipe of an expired pen. I bent the zipper’s tail and put it inside the pipe and flattened the pipe with a hammer. It is cool actually… I’m happy with it. See it for yourself, let me know if it might inspire you.

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How To Choose Badminton Racket

Recently my friend ask me about which brand of racket that is good. Well, this simple question somehow can’t be answered that simple because we play badminton differently and our muscle are not same in strength. What good for me might not good for you.

To answer that question, I’m going to write about my “research” in buying a badminton racket or rackets.

Basic Knowledge

First, if you never play badminton and think that this sport as a fun experience but later you find out that this is not your things and you want to change to another sport, then you should borrow a strong and cheap racket. Only buy if you broke your friend’s racket!

But if you want to be a serious player, then you should buy the all-around racket as your first.

What is an all around racket? It’s a racket designed to make you play all kind of badminton games, whether to practice, playing double or single. To hit smash or to defense. The best racket for this I think is, Yonex Carbonex 21. In Yonex Chart, it was placed slightly center of the quadrant, meaning that it is the Mercedes Benz for all rackets, classic and basic to start. I don’t own one because it is kinda expensive now.

To my experience, if you start doing something with a cheap and rather toy-ish equipment you might think that yourself is a failure. Because actually price comes with quality. Take a sample of buying a guitar – if you buy the cheap ones, it can’t sound properly, the tune is slightly off and it just feels not right. Tips for you, if you are planning to buy a racket, please ask someone you know that is good in badminton to the store, and let them choose it for you. Don’t trust the seller! Afterall, a player should know what racket that is “fake/toy” or “real deal”.

Of course if you want to have a total control about buying your new racket, then continue to read.

Well then, if you happened to have played and practicing badminton for a while then you should know whether you are the kind of person who like to hit your opponent, or the one who is so humble and always receiving your opponent’s hit to your body.

If you have a tendency to be angry, then you definitely need a racket that is a head heavy. So you can kill your shuttlecock to opponents area or body. The head heavy racket make your smash hit very powerful and fast, hopefully your opponent who is also playing an attack style also using a head heavy racket, therefore their hand not quick enough to return the shuttlecock. But this kind of racket have negatives effects, they feels heavy and your swinging maneuver might not easy to perform.

I believe that a head heavy player, Oops.. I mean an attack style player should be physically strong, because if someone doing smash all the time – he or she can hurt their arms and not to mention that before the game is done, they will experience fatigue more quickly.

If you are a defense style player, then you should choose the light head racket. It means that the weight point of that racket are focused on the handle/grip. Therefore you can swing it much faster, it is a necessity to return a smash.

If you have simg_matrixeen a racket chart, that some racket brand provide in their website, you see that it is not that simple to choose according to your knowledge about head heavy and light head racket. Because they have many alternative to choose for.

If I want head heavy but light, is that possible? well, you can’t have it all. Alladin only have 3 wishes… but there are actually rackets manufacturers who would made such rackets, and it is for professional/athletes. Yes, it is VERY expensive, and because they have to make it more light – so they use the material that is light BUT… they are not very durable (such as Graphite and Carbon). It is OK if you are an athlete, you don’t have to buy them, they all sponsored by the maker.

Time after time, you also need to change your racket. Your muscles are developed and your skills too. So you need a new racket that can accommodate your needs. Such needs includes the flexibility of the staff, new technologies that can make the racket be strung at high tension which makes your hit more fast and more control accuracy.

Basically it is all about balance. Even an expensive racket might not good for you. Balancing your body, muscles, your skills to your rackets, and whether you play single or doubles is the right approach about choosing a racket. You should also consider these when buying a new racket: whether it is a fake, or original but licensed, is it used or new… and most importantly, does it wallet friendly to you? Does it worth to buy an expensive racket while you just want to play for sports, to make your body healthy? Winning some matches to your friend is good for your pride and your confident, but most importantly it makes you healthy… not just win the match.

How to read the quadrant/racket chart?

Try to answer these first, is it for playing doubles or for single? for hard hitters or for defensive? do you need light or heavy racket?

Most quadrant chartYonex 2014 chart ed.jpg are written this way, the top vertical line described as a head heavy and the opposite is head light. The left on the horizontal line is control the right one is power.

You can say that a head heavy is for offensive smash based player, while the opposite is for received base defensive player.

Note that NOT because they are defensive players, so they never hit smash. Sometimes they too perform some smashes, so therefore you will need a racket that is somewhere in the middle, in case you need to smash you still be able to have a decent attack.

Rackets in left quadrant are intended for double oriented player, so if you often plays doubles matches it is good to have the type that is in the left area. The right quadrant is for single oriented. For an example, in these days #1 female single player, Carolina Marin use a Yonex Nanoray Z Speed (NR-ZSP). Her racket type sit in the far right and at the exact line of the horizontal line. So her racket is a balance between head and light head, which is necessary for a single player. More to say, she is rather a temperamental player which need a power racket so she must pick racket that is in the right quadrant.

A double oriented player doesn’t have to pick the type that sits near the horizontal line, because there are two people in the court. Supposedly, your friend is the one who smash, and you are the one who performs netting. So your friend racket should be in the right (or exactly in the vertical line) and far upper quadrant, and yours are in the far left and below quadrant. But there are no job descriptions like that in the field, so it is better to pick a racket somewhere near the center, don’t go too extreme unless you are a professional player.

What brand should I choose?

Well, if you ask me.. first, you should choose the more famous ones such as Yonex, Li-ning, or Victor. They are the brand that most athletes use. I say that not all of other brands are no good, it happens that not many store are selling unfamous ones – because they don’t sell well. The not famous one usually more cheap and have all the technologies that a branded one use, probably even made in the same factory too.

Secondly, if the rackets comes within the same years then the technology are about the same in racket manufactures. They just advertised with different names. You will discover that IT SEEMS they are the same technologies, yet came with names such as nanotec or nanotube, x-fullerene or pyrofil, etc. So, don’t be too confused about choosing, they basicly are the same, the differences are in the combinations to apply those technologies in a single racket.

Of course you will not find exactly the same feature in different brand. The high class one (more expensive) usually have more than three features to be applied in their rackets line/types, they combine the technologies and features.

Different brands combines those technologies or features differently, to get you even more confused. But mostly if the racket’s price is slightly competitive in price, they have the same CLASS. (if the brands are the famous ones). Lower price means they applied three or less technologies they have, higher price means they combine more of their technologies on each rackets.

What is this Grip size, Light-heavy, Flexible or Stiffness?

Most racket that are sold in store comes with G4 and 3u. They are the code for grip and weight. G4 are grip four, G3 are grip three. The smaller the number, the larger the grip. 3U, 4U are the lightness… the bigger the number, the less weight the racket is. (for the grip size, it is possible to remove the original grip towel just to make it smaller and regrip it with the thicker towel to make it larger so the G number is not really that important)

Flexible or stiff? it is the information for the staff, the more flexible means you will return your opponent hits easily because it will bounce easily. It means a light touch of the shuttlecock with this racket can make it fly more far or higher, small effort – big result. But they are hard to control because the staff is slightly bend, therefore your shuttlecock might not approach the spot that you want. Most of the expensive and advanced racket have a stiff staff, and not all of the more expensive one are light in weight. I was pretty surprised myself with this fact, an original racket which is use by #1 male athlete (such as Yonex Voltric Z-Force II) are actually heavy in my hand.

According to my friend if you happened not to like the stiffness of your racket’s staff, then you can compromise it by strung it slightly little under tension. Meaning that if the chart said it can be strung to 26 lbs, you should strung it at 25 or 24 lbs just to make it more bouncy. Once again, it is all about balance. Athlete’s racket might be heavy in my hand but to them which were practicing everyday – it may not. If your hand are strong, then a light racket might get your shuttlecock goes outside the court more often.

How to Finalize my Decision?

You can not judge the racket is suits you or not just by looking at it. You have to try it, unfortunately 99% of the store won’t strung their new racket moreover let you try it in the court. So, it is best if you borrow your friend’s racket first. If it suits you, then buy the same brand and type. But mostly you will not find it in the store if the racket was produced a couples of years ago. (1% is if you have your own sport store)

But do not worry, most store allow you to grip and swing their new racket so you have the “feel” about that racket. What you need to know is that, the new racket is not always comes with the string. They shipped without the string, so if you swing the unstrung racket, I’m sure it will feel slightly different once it is strung. Moreover, some rackets come without strings but replaced by a piece of cardboard with some athletes faces on  it… do not try to swing with that cardboard on, it may ripped and you are forced to buy because you broke it.

Already confuse now? don’t be, you just need to experiment about other rackets that your friend has, look it up in the internet what position your friend’s racket in the chart, so you will find that if it suit you or not, it was a heavy head or not? Then you just take your feeling to guide you. Personally I like a racket that is light but I also an attack style player, so I would search racket that is in the left and slightly upper quadrant.

Yes, another unfortunate that nowadays the maker don’t use chart and quadrant anymore but they use a column to describe their rackets. But you’ll have the idea to choose.

Fake or Original, Licensed or not – used or new?

I would say, go with your budget. A Yonex racket was widely counterfeited, so you should buy this brand in local store, or buy from trusted and official internet site for their brand. Some trick can be applied to determined that is a “real” one, Yonex’s company provide such glasses that is available in sport store that sell Yonex’s rackets (looks like a 3D cardboard glasses), to see the holograms which they install on every of their new rackets. The color of the “fake” holograms will not appear so rainbow like compare to the original ones.

If they don’t come with any holograms, maybe it is a fake ones, or maybe it is original but the hologram is missing, after all it is just a sticker. Then what? I think you should be suspicious, but if you believe the seller – you should try to feel the delicacy of the paint job and the printings logo, don’t forget to see the bottom of the grip too. Most of the fake one’s do not bother to take special care in printing or painting their fake rackets, they just have to make it cheaper so to maximize profit. While the original makers take serious consideration about their quality of their products.

There are people who sell fake ones with higher price, so don’t judge the fake or the real one by it’s price. You should suspicious if the price is rather too cheap if they say it is original. (see the distribution website for the recommended price)

Licensed one or not? A licensed ones are a product that might be produce by different factory but they buy a license from the original maker. You see that even i-phone too are produced in China, it is original not the fake ones. They do that to make it cheaper in distribution and in the raw material. Most people that I know think that a licensed ones are not as good as the real one when it comes to be use in game match. I don’t know exactly what is the different, but I guess the feeling of handling the racket is not the same. For example, Carbonex 21 made in Japan in my town priced about one million rupiahs (S100), but the Taiwan’s made are only two hundred and fifty thousand rupiahs ($25). The seller said that this Taiwan’s made is original but licensed from Yonex. Of course the seller said that it is the same when it comes in playing. But what do you think?

Most serious player won’t buy the licensed, moreover the fake ones.

Used or new? I bought secondhand’s one twice, and I did that from online seller without even touch the racket. I just ask the seller to make a decent photos of their used racket, I asked if they are originals or not and ask if they have a crack or not. I was speculated at that time, a little bit worried and a lot of prays too – but the main reason that I dare to buy it is that it is not cost me more than half of million rupiahs (below 50 USD). So, I think if it turns out the racket is bad I just consider that I buy a fake one too expensive. But if it is not, I might have an original which ones was priced about 100 dollar at the time it was released, so it was cheap and you get the original.

Buy a new one if you already decide and know what you need. Buy a used one if you are going to retired from badminton in a couple of years, or want a backup racket in case something happend to your main racket. I suggest you go to local store, asked them if they have a used one in their store, usually they do.

The advantages of buying a used one is that for the price of licensed one, you get the original – which I think it is much more “tuned” than the licensed or the fake one. The disadvantage is that you never know the “history” of that racket, maybe it got an accident and got it repaired? who knows.

Buying a fake one is OK too, if you are just a beginner or your budget is tight. The fake one still can be use to win some match, otherwise it is sell in toy store rather in sport store. An expensive and the original one’s can broke too after hit some hard smash, some people say because it was strung by untrained employee so the tensions that were used are vary or maybe it was a defect in manufacturing. To my experience, my original rackets have been hits other rackets while play doubles and been hitting floors too many times and are still not crack, just paint chips all over.

So if the original can be broken in rare case I assumed, what about the fake one’s? I examine my friend racket that is the fake one, the shape of racket head before and after it strung are distorted – so I guess the fake one is not as strong as the original one. In my opinion, if you buying the fake one, don’t strung at the tension that is written in the chart, rather have it strung to lower tension.

Is it too Expensive?

Lastly, buying a racket is just like buying tools. A good tools paid for itself, did you ever buy a cheap screwdriver that were bend when you try to open some stuck screws?

Think of it this way, if you are an athlete you need a tool to work, if you are a woodworker you need tools to work. A lousy tools makes you work longer and might get you frustrated, therefore you are not happy. So, two million rupiahs ($200) for the tool that you will keep using everyday or everyweek – it is worth to consider. To me, if you just play for sport, maybe aroun one million rupiahs is pretty decent ($100). Just remember if you bought the expensive ones, try not to hit other rackets with it.

I believe satisfaction is more important than a wallet friendly, it is a tool for your health – just like a computer you HAVE TO buy, in order to make money. A racket is a tool you have to buy in order to make you healthy.

PS: Here’s a link to get more information about badminton, it’s from brand name Victor’s website. http://victor.fi/images/Tiedostot/PDF/BM.pdf

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My Badminton Rackets

Today I want to share about my badminton rackets ( or racquets ). I’d like to tell you what kind of racket I’ve been using.

My first racquet was a Yonex Blacken. I am not sure if there was any series or types about this racket, since I use it at very young age ( 6 or 7 ).. so yeah, you know how old I am right now. I was just playing at that time and never got serious in playing badminton until I enter high school. But what I still remember about this racket is that it is heavy, with aluminium staff and T joints, it was a standard racket for a beginner or for training. My grandpa who runs a sport shop at that time recommended to me, I have to pay for it though, of course with a special discount.

My brother, who also play badminton got Yonex Carbonex 8. It was very famous at that time, everyone at his club use that racket. He still have it today, with T joint, carbon staff and aluminium head. It’s a little head heavy than a balanced racket, it was intended for intermediate skilled player. It is a good racket for control though.

I finally manage to save up money at that time, and wanted to buy the same racket. But the seller give me the new Carbonex 8. It’s a Yonex Carbonex 8 TOUR SP, the racket just a one piece carbon (not assembled with T joint anymore) – I think it is a good racket, for a beginner and intermediate player. A little head heavy but good for controlling shuttlecock. I feel it’s a little heavy than the old Carbonex 8 but I like that, and this is the longest racket that I use.

I did buy Carbonex 9 Tour SP for an upgrade when I was in Senior High, also a Pro Kennex Boron 815, but those racket didn’t suit me at all. So I sell those rackets. My playing was sucks with that rackets, but I remember the Pro Kennex’s is very light, it’s like swinging one of chopsticks. Speaking of weird rackets,
My brother also have Prince Whip Lite 700, a racket with unusual shape of the head, I also had a Carlton 3,7 that have a stainless steel staff flattened in the middle.

A couple years ago I try to get back to badminton just to keep me fit and I bought a used racket. When I search in the internet, there are two types of this Titanium 7, one is heavier and one is ti7 blog.jpglighter. I got the light version (Titanium Ti7-light). In the racket chart that Yonex had, this racket position is in the left and below quadrant. It means that this is light head racket and it’s medium in flexibility of the staff.

My experience using this racket, I can’t smash hard – the control is not as superb compare to my Carbonex 8 Tour SP, especially in netting. But it is light so it’s suitable for a defense or receiving smashes. I like using this racket for playing doubles.

After a year with twice a month playing badminton, I think I need more racket just for backup. So once again I seek the used one, second-hand preferably because I think soon I will be old enough that playing badminton might get me injured, why should I bought a new one that cost more money. So I did find a Victor racket in local internet seller. It was Victor Brave Sword 130, a 2014 release. (BRS 130)

I never use Victor’s before, and I don’t know if there is a fake Victor in the market, but I do know that this is a popular brand to Korean athlete’s. Supposedly the Victor racket made in Taiwan, but mine got this Made in China print in the staff. The paint job is as smooth but easily chips compare to Yonex’s, the engraving infomation about the racket is very fine detailed. Yeah.. I think mine is not fake event though it doesn’t have hologram sticker anymore. Perhaps the previous user removes it. Overall, I think it is OK.

This racket in the victor blog.jpgVictor’s chart is position in far left and little below from the horizontal bar in the quadrant. So I guess, it is pretty much like Yonex Ti-7 in the chart, it just more light. I did curious about the weight, so I took a digital measurement and the weight just 2 grams different which the Victor’s is more heavy. But, probably that is because the hand towel factor. Also I noticed in comparison of the length, the Victor’s have longer wood handle so in total, this racket have 2 cm more length than Yonex’s. I dunno is that legal or not, but I find it a little strange and annoying to grab a longer handle, sometimes it hit below my wrist. The longer handle helps me to thrust a backhand hit though.

Despite the gap in year of release (I think Ti-7 produced in 2010), and probably the technology to produce a carbon racket, those Ti-7 and BRS 130 is about the same in performance. But I think I will like this BRS 130 more, because it can be strung to 26 lbs. It can smash more fast, and it does well in netting. I believe it is the best racket for netting that I have at this moment, even though it is a tight strung but the control is just very smooth. The shuttlecock can touch the net and rolls, I wasn’t able to do that in Ti-7, either it never pass the net or too high. As for controlling, I think I need some more practice using this racket. It just the long handle that bothers me, perhaps someday I want to cut it just 1 cm or so.

Below you can see the rackets that I mentioned above. Some of the photo I get from the internet, since I don’t have it with me anymore.

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